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STORY KEE HUA CHEE
London’s venerable Boodles has enlisted designer Rebecca Hawkins to liven things up. Her answer: a walk through Wonderland.
THINGS are not what they seem at the newly revamped and revitalised Boodles. Is that Kiera Knightley looking ethereal in a melange of fantasy jewels enmeshed with swallows, phoenix, hummingbirds, butterflies and all sorts of actual and imaginary flora and fauna? Is that a newborn butterfly tentatively opening its wings? And is the shimmery, delicate feather on her neck real, or a jewel covered in diamonds?
Welcome to the new Wonderland world of Rebecca Hawkins, where dreamy delights are made rock solid by diamonds, precious stones, gold and platinum. Art and design were the only things that appealed to Rebecca Hawkins from childhood. Now she is literally realising her dreams as they take on solid form, transmuted from paper to computer to counter and cashier.
She was passionate about all things creative from an early age and it was a path clearly laid out for her. As a child, she immersed herself in drawing and sketching all sorts of stuff, usually in seclusion up in trees with a bird’s eye view of Wiltshire’s lush landscapes and away from prying busybodies. The 43-year-old graduated with a degree in Three Dimensional Design specialising in jewellery and silverware from Birmingham Institute of Art and Design and landed her dream job with Boodles after going freelance and a stint with a company specialising in rings.
“Boodles had taken the decision to start designing its products exclusively inhouse. I set up a design facility and recruited designers into the team. We have a great deal of creative freedom, which is important, as Boodles is a private owned family business dedicated to design.”
Second Coming
Boodles is so hip and Londonish, that many forget Boodle & Dunthorne came into existence to satiate the needs of the newly rich seafaring merchants of Liverpool. The Wainwright family has been linked to Boodles since 1880. Yet ten years ago, the Wainwrights were treading water. Admits Michael Wainwright, “We didn’t sell our own products but a mishmash of other people’s stuff. Our stores were old fashioned and our store windows were crammed with everything, including the kitchen sink. We weren’t making money.”
After a successful revamp, Boodles finally opened its London store in 2007. Today, it caters to both old and new money with its timeless designs and red carpet collections. It has 8 branches in Manchester, Chester and Dublin while its Liverpool headquarters is an iconic landmark. |
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Boodle & Dunthorne was founded in 1798 and over time, as business expanded, this rather mouthful of a name shrank to become Boodles. Today, Boodles remains a resolutely British company, owned by brothers Nicholas and Michael Wainwright who, with Jody and James, are into the sixth generation. “I have worked hard with the team to create a strong look for Boodles,” says Hawkins. “Though Boodle’s history stretches back to the 18th century, we create a contemporary feel as jewellery is to be enjoyed. My jewels are characterised by a harmonious fluidity.
They are classical and have a maturity that blends with the precious materials. We also try to create pieces that reflect our passion for design and the company’s zest for life.”
Starting from ground zero
“I never start with a fixed idea of what I am going to create. The actual design process is more of an evolution rather than one based on some preconceived theme or idea.”
How a piece looks on the body is key. “This is by far more important than how it looks in a showcase,” says Hawkins. “People wear jewellery to express their personality. It is important not to lose sight of the fact that jewels are meant to be worn, and should enhance the wearer.”
“The India Blue Peacock necklace is a particularly sensual piece. The colours in the black opal inspired me and its iridescence made it a perfect representation of the eye of a peacock feather. I also wanted to capture the tactile quality of soft feather fronds against bare skin.”
Over the moon
One of Hawkins’ favourite designs is the faceted moonstone pendant and earrings, based on a water motif that encircles the moonstone. “I fell in love with the stones as soon as I saw them, for their ethereal, enigmatic quality. They look almost colourless but as the wearer moves they reveal flashes of blue. Their soft, hazy appearance contrasts beautifully with the hard edge of the diamonds.”
Another favourite is the Pagoda earrings. “This dramatic piece hovers by the water’s edge and appears to float over its shimmering reflection.” Meanwhile, the Indira’s Miracle ring is a major conversation starter with an angel arching opened her platinum and rose gold wings.
Hawkins enjoys designing with diamonds and coloured gems. “Diamonds are incredibly versatile as they can follow a shape to create a sculptural piece or act as a focal point.” With Hawkins enlivening things with her ‘Wonderland’ series, Boodles has only one way to go... up.
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