STORY BING YEE If there was to be a timeless symbol evocative of the assertiveness and sensuality of women, it would be the Cartier Panther, the leader of the pack in feline-themed jewellery. STUNNING, quietly confident and passionate. There is a tenacious sense of mystery and sensuality in the woman who wears the Cartier Panther. First introduced into the haute joaillerie house in the form of a panther pendant watch in platinum, diamonds and onyx in 1915, the feline creature has not only caught the attention of the rich and famous and inspired many jewellers in their creation of feline-themed jewellery, it has also evolved into a legacy symbolic of the House of Cartier.
Under the creative guidance of Jeanne Toussaint, an unshakeable wave of Cartier Panther fever took the early 20th century by storm. Fashionable women iconic of their times, such as the Duchess of Windsor, Princess Nina Aga Khan and Barbara Hutton, were huge fans of feline jewellery created by the house.
Toussaint, who was well-known in jewellery circles for her exquisite taste, joined Cartier in 1910 and was appointed creative director of the company's fine jewellery department in 1933. Described as "a creative and demanding woman of the utmost elegance" with a "bird-like profile", the French lady was credited with a major role in the Cartier look even though she did not sketch.
Noted for the creation of a line of trend-setting 'animalist' pieces of jewellery highlighting yellow gold and coloured gems, Toussaint drew inspiration from Africa and gave life and soul to the panther theme. In fact, the creative femme was nicknamed "Panther" due to her affinity with the big cat. Her Parisian apartment was said to be decorated with panther-skin carpets and what were probably the first Cartier panther vanity cases.
Toussaint's passion for transforming the feline world into precious jewels brings to mind the famous Cartier golden panther - a commission piece by the Duke of Windsor for his wife in 1948 - a great cat in yellow gold flecked with black enamel, sprawling in ease on a 90ct cabochon emerald. So well-loved was the panther brooch that the Duke and Duchess purchased another brooch depicting the perfect panther miniature seated on a striking sapphire cabochon weighing 152.53cts - just a year later.
Considered one of the best-dressed women in the world, the Duchess of Windor's jewellery purchases - which included a platinum panther bracelet, tiger brooch and lorgnette, alongside the pair of famous panther brooches - naturally, did not go unnoticed. A wave of Cartier Panther "notoriety" followed in the '50s. The bejewelled beast adorned personages of privilege and power, elevating the panther's status as a hallmark of the house from then on.
Mrs Daisy Fellowes, daughter of the Fourth Duke of Decazes, who often played host to the Windsors, also placed an order for a panther brooch in sapphires and diamonds. Princess Nina Sadruddin Aga Khan, who adored panthers to the extent of covering her bedroom walls with the wildcat's motifs, was also among Cartier's broad clientele of panther collectors. The princess acquired quite a sumptuous collection of panther-inspired jewellery including a shirt-frill pin, a brooch in the form of an articulated panther and a two-headed panther open bracelet. In the late '50s and early '60s, American heiress Barbara Hutton also chose tiger-inspired brooch in yellow diamonds and onyx, and "golden fleece" earrings from Toussaint's precious and imaginative menagerie.
Two decades later, the sleek and agile muse continued to inspire and give rise to the creation of the Silverium line - a jewellery collection using black silver and gold animal motifs as its core design - in 1985, and the launch of the Panthere line of watches, perfume and bags. The classic Panthere watch featuring a highly-distinctive bracelet, in particular, became a reference in the field of watch-making design.
The panther continues to be a firm favourite at Cartier today, as exemplified by its extensive Panther jewellery collection - La Collection Panthere De Cartier. In shades of black, white and green, some designs in the collection pay homage to the famous Duchess brooch where the physical form of the panther is exalted as a precious jewel. Other designs, taking on an abstract adaptation of the panther's spotted coat, are less a depiction of the animal itself, but a cele-bration of the creature's beauteous hide.
The continuation of the feline collection's success has to be traced from the beginnings of each jewellery piece. Designers first capture the animal's majestic poses on paper. A final full-scale sketch, precise in terms of colour, texture and density, is carefully translated into a moulded wax sculpture by an engraver who effectively reproduces the subtlety and power of the animal's movement.
After the sculpture is cast into a metal, it is then set with thousands of stones that cling on to the sculpted creature's muscles, paws and head. The art of setting lies in emphasising every detail of the panther until the metal surface is hidden.
The Cartier Panther derives its marvellous brilliant-studded coat by means of 'poil' - a special setting technique known only to Cartier. This technique reproduces the spotted cat's honeycomb patterned coat with minute accuracy, where each stone is encircled by minute strands of gold folded over the stone. Adorned with diamonds, onyx or sapphire cabochon adornments, coupled with detailed artistry and craftsmanship, there is little wonder why the panther has become a cult creature at Cartier, an image of sensual and precious femininity. S
