STORY JAMES SIOW In an age of pump-up man-made stones, artist and jeweller extraordinaire Samuel Kung shapes modern dreams out of jade. JADE. You either love it or you don't. For Hong Kong jeweller Samuel Kung, it is obvious where his inclination lies. His is not the jade from the arterial back lanes of Hong Kong's Hollywood Road or the shanty commercial enclave on the border that divides Myanmar and Thailand, nor the agar-agar green bangle you buy on a day-trip to Shenzhen. His is jade that is spoken of in hushed tones and traded out of your sight.
This is the jade that makes Samuel Kung Hong Kong's foremost jadeite artist.
"Jade represents culture and charisma," Samuel Kung stresses, immediately unshackling the old-fashioned tag that is often bounded to one of China's most historical gems. In his presence, you do not think of jade as forgotten family heirlooms; you recall an Emperor's treasure trove.
As if fearful that jade's place in history and relevance in modern design will not be palpable, Kung sent us a brief note (that opened with "For your information.") on the history of jade. He is ardent and articulate, underscoring the fact that "jade is history of culture and civilisation."
If indeed the world of jade is virgin territory to you, Kung's written introduction will offer you clues to a glorious past and an indeterminate but exciting future. With almost nationalistic leanings, he tells of the gem's genesis in China, its status during the different dynasties, its glorious years during the Shanghainese art deco era, its post-Mao revival and European jewellers' love of the stone, particularly Cartier, Mauboussin, Van Cleef & Arpels and Chaumet.
The jadeite master, who is represented by Christie's, admits to the overwhelming influence of Western art but maintains that Oriental art must not be overlooked or under-appreciated, especially in jewellery design. "I am convinced that there's a higher plane to jewellery production and appreciation."
Buoyed by this passion, Samuel Kung recently embarked on a quest to bring more art to people who may escape them not by choice but by lack of facilities that place creative works in the right light. Last year, with the support of the Shanghai Municipality authorities, he established the Shanghai Living Arts Museum in the Huangpu District, right in the heart of the city. The plans for the museum are redolent of Beatles-era-London-meets-post-97-Hong Kong.
"This museum," he says with not a mere hint of pride, "will bring together the finest of the East and West in arts, and thus expose Shanghai to the exciting contemporary amalgam that mixes high art and pop culture with functional values of daily living."
Should jade, then, be given similar makeover to win new admirers?
"We must understand that all gemstones take thousands of years to evolve and develop, and so does jade. Jade is a gem that surpasses time; its relevance in modern fashion depends on how designers best interpret jade in their designs. I consider it a challenge if we are able to influence the public to feel for jade through creative designing and production technology."
Jade lovers admire the stone's beauty as well as its mystical qualities. History is replete with tales of jade's healing and evil-dispelling powers. Kung made no conscious effort to dispel some of these beliefs. Instead, he regales with anecdotes of its charm.
"In the past, only the best of stones are named as jade and must be sent to Emperors as gift, marking the highest respect. Therefore, jade is a symbol of status and authority - a positive interpretation."
"As was discovered later, chemically, jade prefers alkalinity to acidity. Its properties react well with alkaline, thus showing better colour. When a person is in good health, his or her skin will be more alkaline, therefore when he/she wears jade, the jade looks better and people will say that the jade is very lively."
"When jade is used as a charmed stone for faith and confidence, it will keep bad luck away or take up the bad luck for you."
It is perhaps such stories - compelling no less - that augment jade's reputation as an old lady's gem, a companion to liver spots, the temptation grandma tricksters cannot resist. A jeweller working amid such prejudice will surely encounter the many cynics who will scoff at jade as an emblem of luck.
"I agree that most Asians will not, without a cause, purchase a piece of jade to wear unless it is a gift from respectable seniors, which they will keep dearly. Our ancestors told us that jade will bring fortune and harmony, and people will, therefore, buy it as a present for their loved ones during special occasions."
Samuel Kung's jadeite pieces, whether as figurine or jewellery, is never at odds with anything conventional yet they're refreshing for their maverick streak. There's a predilection for odd yet organic shapes. The jade is often framed with diamonds, adding a fringe of brilliance that often enhances the jade's distinctive colour rather than outshines it.
Despite this 'higher plane' that he utters, Kung, who speaks of Aristotle and the man's philosophy with the same fervour as a soprano extolling the greatness of Verdi, and quotes Confucius effortlessly - "the good virtue of man is like jade" - considers himself a lover of jewellery but not a wearer, even his birthstone diamond.
"I use it a lot in my designs but I seldom wear it. Diamonds complement jade very well, that's why they are frequently featured in my work."
In private, Kung, who is married and father to a daughter and son, cherishes the time he spends with kids. Away from the family den and the artist's studio, he golfs, listens to music and reads a startling variety of books on topics as varied as painting and finance.
From cult jeweller to big-earning internationalist, Samuel Kung's reputation has not quite sunk in. "I love jade very much and I want so much for the world to have a better understanding, appreciation and recognition of the gem."
