| FIT FOR ROYALTY | OPEN HEARTS | FIRE AND ICE | THE ART OF BREGUET | GEMTALK | PEARLTALK | WATCHTALK | PIONEERS | STAR GEMS |

April May 2004 Archive

STORY B SHEUNG

The pearl paradox.

I ONCE overheard this conversation in a jewellery shop. The jeweller was showing some pearl rings to a customer when she said bluntly, "I do not want anything fragile. I have no time for care and maintenance." If I were the jeweller, I would have proposed to her an iron ring because iron is harder than gold, silver and platinum.

Another time, an American friend told me she once threw her pearl necklace at her fiance in a fit of anger. She felt guilty afterward, not so much for charging towards her fiance, but for tearing off the pearl necklace, though fortunately none of the pearls were smashed.

Hard vs Tough
This is the paradox of pearls: seemingly fragile but in reality much stronger than we think. There are actually two notions when we talk about durability in jewellery and gemstones - hardness and toughness. Hardness is often represented on the Mohs scale, a measuring scale of scratch resistance varying from 1 for talc to 10 for diamond. Pearls, silver and gold are ranked at 3. This means pearls, silver and gold have similar degrees of scratch resistance.

When it comes to toughness - the resistance to breakage - it is a different story. Opaque gemstones such as jadeite, opal, amber and pearls are not high in their resistance to scratch, but they are among the toughest gem materials. The toughness of pearls is a result of the compactly built nacre crystals. That is why the pearls of my American friend were intact despite her throwing the pearls at her fiance with all her might. But the fact that pearls are resistant to breakage does not mean that they do not need your tender loving care.

Wear But No Tear
While pearls do not need complicated handling, basic care is required. Pearls are living gems containing organic substance and water. They need gentle care to keep them clean, lively and beautiful. Most pearl lovers would have witnessed how pearls take on a lively look when they are worn often, becoming dull when they are sadly forgotten in the safe.

Pearl Care
Wi
pe pearls regularly with a soft cloth moistened with water. Not all jewellery cleaning solutions are suitable for pearls, so check with your jeweller before immersing your pearls in unknown solutions. If you need to apply hair spray and perfume, do that before putting on your pearls. Chlorinated water of swimming pools is to be avoided too. Corrosive chemicals and acids attack calcium carbonate, the very substance of pearl nacre. (see Solitaire Issue 7 for information on nacre). I once soaked some pearls in red wine upon the request of a wine journalist. Two weeks later, the pearls started peeling as the vinegary wine dissolved the nacre layer by layer. Orange juice was worse, as the peeling effect appeared within two days.

To prevent scratching, pearl jewellery should be stored separately from other jewellery. Put them in a satin pouch or fold them in velvet. In the case of a frequently worn pearl necklace, it is advisable to restring the pearls periodically before the silk thread weakens. Restringing is not necessary if the pearl necklace is strung with 'Signed & Sealed' steel wire (see Solitaire Issue 6).

Should we wear pearls when we are doing housework or gardening? My initial reaction was no, presuming it was only natural that pearls and all other jewellery are to be kept away from dirt and dust. But I have since changed my mind; I am convinced that if a person loves pearls and appreciate beautiful, delicate things in life, they know intuitively how to cherish them. S


BACK TO TOP

© Copyright 2004 | All Rights Reserved by Solitaire Media Pte Ltd, Singapore | Please read our Website User Agreement & Privacy Policy | Contact Us